I’m asked this question constantly, and it’s time to set the record straight. There is a persistent myth that retinoids ‘thin’ the skin, and this fear prevents many from embracing one of the most effective ingredients in modern skincare. The truth? Retinoids do the exact opposite.
Let’s start with a little background. The term ‘retinoid’ refers to a family of vitamin A derivatives. In skincare, you’ll commonly find over-the-counter options like retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl esters such as retinyl palmitate. Then there are the prescription-strength versions, like tretinoin (also known as retinoic acid), which a doctor must prescribe in the UK.
The benefits of these powerhouse ingredients are undisputed in dermatology. They are true multi-taskers, stimulating collagen production, repairing sun damage, improving uneven pigmentation, and even clearing up congestion and breakouts. For these reasons, they are a cornerstone of any serious anti-ageing skincare regimen.
So where does the myth about thinning skin come from? It stems from a misunderstanding of how retinoids work. Retinoids accelerate the turnover of skin cells, helping to exfoliate the very top layer of the skin, the horny layer, or what dermatologists call the stratum corneum. This layer is made up of dead skin cells called corneocytes. By removing the excess build-up of this material, retinoids reveal a fresher, more radiant skin underneath. So yes, they do make one layer of your skin thinner, but it’s only excess dead cells sitting on top of your living skin.
Crucially, while they are thinning the dead layer, they are simultaneously thickening and strengthening the living layers of your skin beneath it, the epidermis and the dermis. The dermis is where your skin’s collagen and elastin live, the very proteins that give your skin its firmness and elasticity. By fortifying these living tissues, retinoids make your skin more resilient and smooth, improving texture and fine lines. This is precisely why retinoids are celebrated for their anti-ageing properties.
In summary, the notion that retinoids thin your skin is one of the biggest misconceptions in skincare. They simply remove the dull, dead cells from the surface while working hard to thicken and strengthen the living, vital layers of the skin underneath. The result is not thinner skin, but healthier, and more radiant skin with improved texture and finer pores.
Whether you have a medical skin condition which needs treatment or simply want to look your very best, our specialised dermatology team will help you achieve the very best result.
